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Nonlinear wave energy modelling in the surf zone
Nonlinear wave energy modelling surf zone
2009/11/16
Breaking wave energy in the surf zone is modelled through the incorporation of the time dependent energy balance equation in a non linear dispersive wave propagation model. The energy equations solved...
The Numerical Modeling of Surface Wave Propagation in the Surf Zone
Surface Wave Propagation Surf Zone
2009/2/18
A numerical model is used to simulate the shoreward propagation of a train of periodic borelike surface disturbances in the surf zone over a sloping beach. Turbulence production is included both in th...
Observations of Steady Longshore Currents in the Surf Zone
Steady Longshore Currents Surf Zone
2009/1/13
Steady surf-zone longshore currents and directional properties of the incident wave field were measured on a beach with nearly straight and parallel depth contours. Selected data were processed into 6...
Surf Zone Longshore Currents and Random Waves：Field Data and Models
Surf Zone Random Waves Longshore Currents
2009/1/12
Analytic and numerical models for longshore currents generated by obliquely incident random waves am compared with field observations. Five days of observations were selected during which the waves we...
Air Entrainment Processes and Bubble Size Distributions in the Surf Zone
Air Entrainment Processes Bubble Size Distributions Surf Zone
2008/7/16
A new optical instrument was deployed in the surf zone in a trial experiment to measure bubble size distributions and visualize air entrainment and bubble formation mechanisms within breaking surf. Im...
Spectral Energy Balance of Breaking Waves within the Surf Zone
Spectral Energy Balance Breaking Waves Surf Zone
2008/7/3
The spectral energy balance of ocean surface waves breaking on a natural beach is examined with field observations from a cross-shore array of pressure sensors deployed between the shoreline and the o...
Extreme water velocities: Topographical amplification of wave-induced flow in the surf zone of rocky shores
Extreme water velocities wave-induced fl ow
2014/5/20
Water velocities as high as 25 m s21
have been recorded in the surf zone of wave-swept rocky shores—velocities
more than twice the phase speed of the breaking waves with which they are associated. H...
Wave action imposes potentially large hydrodynamic forces on intertidal plants and animals, and can act as a primary agent of disturbance. It has also been proposed that rapid water accelerations prod...